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St Laurence Church, Blackmore
(from old postcard) |
Blackmore History (March 1974)
BLACKMORE: The Parish (formerly the Priory) Church of
Blackmore - St. Laurence - stands south of the village on land where the waters
of the River Wid form a large medieval moat, enclosing the site of an old Augustinian
Priory. It may seen strange that there should be so many houses of Austin Canons
in the county, but they were small – Blackmore had only twelve canons - and
they performed a practical function in providing priests to sing mass in the numerous
tiny villages scattered about the forest. This Augustinian Priory was dedicated
to St. Laurentius, a Third century deacon, who, according to tradition, was
martyred in Rome by being roasted to death on a gridiron. Its foundation is
attributed to members of the de Sanford family, probably towards the end of the
12th century. Some records are more specific, and claim that the
priory church was built circa 1150 be two Norman barons, Alan and Jordan de
Sanford, who were Chamberlains to Eleanor, Queen of Henry II. The advowson of
the Priory afterwards passed by the marriage of Alice de Sanford,
grand-daughter of Sir John, to the de Veres, earls of Oxford.
In 1309, episcopal injunctions
were issued to this Priory, as result of a visitation. The prior and canons
were enjoined to be regular in their attendance at all the offices, night and day,
to cease from strife and contentions, not to wander outside the precincts, to receive
no money for the purchase of clothes or necessaries, and not to assign any or
the church ornaments of their house to the churches appropriated to them. With
regard to the care of the parish church of Blackmore, it was insisted that a
fit priest should be at once presented to the bishop for saying mass at the canonical
hours and otherwise ministering to the parishioners. This last order was
neglected, and on 14th February 1310, the bishop peremptorily
ordered compliance within ten days. On 6th April 1310, Nicholas, the Prior, and
Walter de Chelmsford, one of the canons, appeared before the bishop in London
and entered into a covenant with five of the parishioners of Blackmore, to
present a parish vicar, under a penalty of 40/-.
The Priory was dissolved on
10th February 1525 be John Alen, agent of Cardinal Wolsey; its spiritualities
being valued at £41.13.4, and its temporalities at £43.11.3 yearly. By inquisitions
taken on 8th August and 20th November, it was found that there were at the priory
at the time of the suppression a prior and three canons, who were transferred
to other places, and that its possessions Included “the manors of Blackmore, Margaretting,
Willingale, Bowells end Bromfeld". A detailed list of the debts of the
house, amounting in all to £27.19.10, is preserved, and part of the inventory
of the goods or the church. In this, Our Lady's aisle is said to be 40 ft. in
length and St. Peter's aisle, 52 ft.
Exactly a year after the
suppression, the priory was granted by Wolsey to his college at Oxford, and
three years later it was transferred to hi a second foundation at Ipswich. By
his forfeiture it came into the king's hands, and on 1st January 1532, it was
granted to the abbot and convent of Waltham. This was in turn dissolved and it returned
to the Crown, and was finally granted John Smyth Esq., one of the king’s
auditors.
The seal of the priory (about
the middle of the 13th century) was a pointed oval of yellow wax measuring
about 2½ by 1½ inches, with the lower part broken, representing St. Laurence,
under a canopy. The legend was: SIGILL • VENT . KEMORA.
In the lifetime of John Smyth,
the people of Blackmore continued to worship in the Priory Church, but his son
determined to pull down the church and use the materials to build Smyth Hall.
The parishioners objected, claiming the nave as their own. Their claim was
upheld and Sir Thomas Smyth had to close in the east end of the nave, but the
chancel an all other buildings of the community had been demolished. It should
be noted that a parish church stood on the site before the priory was
established.
The church is not that one usually
associated with a priory; it is a modest building, seeming more homely by
reason of its dormer windows, to which reference is made later. The most noteworthy
feature of Blackmore church is its tower, a detailed description of which is
also given subsequently. This modest church, with its splendid tower, and the
dormer windows, gives both a homely and stimulating effect, and, seen across
the fields from all sides of the village, it is both distinctive and charming.
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| The Bull Inn, Blackmore (1960s) |
The church is reached from the
centre or the village by a lane, Church Street, which contains several old
houses in a good state of repair. It also contains a very fine old inn, the Bull
Inn, which was built late in the 15th or early in the 16th century, and was
extended towards the south at a later date. The upper storey projects on the
west front, and there is a break in roof levels at the junction or the
extension with the original block. Inside the building, the roof at the north
end has an original king-post truss. The interior of the inn has been
modernised and is a most warm, comfortable and welcoming place for drink and
good food.
Adjoining the church to the
north-west is a large red brick house known as "Jericho", which
stands within the area occupied by the old priory, and in the garden of the house
are some remains of the ancient buildings (see Exhibit B). Here Henry VIII kept
one of his mistresses, and here was born his natural son, Robert Fitzroy. The king
was a frequent visitor, and often, if he was enquired for at court, the answer
was "He has gone to Jericho" - the phrase has of course lived on.
Blackmore church was
originally nearly twice as long as it now is, extending beyond the present east
wall. The conventual buildings stood on the south side of the church - see Exhibit
B. The present building comprises chancel, nave, north and south aisles, west
tower and north porch. It has had several restorations, the most recent in
1878, 1890, 1903 and 1907. It was originally a Norman structure, but underwent
extensive alterations in the 13th century, and further change in the 14th and
15th centuries. The west end of the nave, and one bay on either side at the
west end still, remain of the original building, and also a fragment on the
north and south sides at the east end. The exterior of the south and east walls
is not normally accessible, being in the garden of Jericho Priory, previously
mentioned.
The general appearance of the church
is unusual - one tiled roof covers the whole building. When it was a Norman
church, there was undoubtedly a roof over the nave and two lean-to or flat
roofs at a lower level over the aisles, but at the end of the 14th century a
new roof was put over the whole building, at the same level from east to west,
embracing nave and both aisles. There are two dormers of large dimensions on
the north and three on the south side. The walls of the church are of flint,
with dressings of clunch and brick. It was probably built on the foundations of
the previous Norman building and some of the original structure is incorporated
in the walls. This is mainly to be seen externally in the east wall. This wall
is mainly of rubble, but portions of the original stone can be seen. It is
heavily buttressed, with brick buttresses at the angles, and two stepped
buttresses of rubble between them. Much of the north-east corner of the wall is
built of brick. In the east wall on the outside are the remains of two round-headed
arches, approximately opposite to the north and south aisles. In the east wail
is a modern three-light Perpendicular window.
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| West Door, Blackmore |
The west door was enclosed by
the tower in the 15th century, and there was little use for the south door when
the church was made parochial. Old papers record that a more modern door was
made at the eastern end of the north aisle, but I can find no visible evidence
of it, and it must have been walled in.
The north porch, coeval with
the tower, and doorway, are now the only public entry to the church. The
external porch has some old timbers, used in reconstruction early in this
century, incorporated in the wall-plates and barge board. The doorway has a
finely moulded arch and label of the Early English or Henry III period, with modern
head-stops end restored moulded jambs.
The west front and one bay of
the Norman church is left at the west end, and there is reason to suppose that
the bay at the east end, of similar width, is partly of the same age, although
the mouldings do not support this deduction. This Norman architecture is of the
12th century, and the west front is a pleasing composition. It was formerly external
until the erection of the tower. There is a circular-headed doorway, into the
tower, above which, on a line, are two hollow chamfered and round-headed
windows, and higher up in a gable a round window, modern internally. The windows
expand to a great width on the inside face of the wall, and are carefully
finished. The whole front is of squared masonry and is a fine specimen of Norman
workmanship. The doorway has three plain orders with a semi-circular head and a
chamfered label; the jambs had each two free shafts and one worked on the inner
order. The capitals are scalloped and have grooved and chamfered abaci. The
free shafts have gone, and the jambs have been repaired in brick.
To the south of the doorway is
a rough sinking in the wall, with a ragged cutting above like a fireplace and
flue. It apparently dates from before the erection of the tower end I cannot ascertain
what its nature was. To appreciate the attractiveness and interest of this Norman
architecture it is essential to view it from the floor of the tower, although
the door giving access to it from the nave is normally locked.
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Unusual south view of
Blackmore Church bell tower
taken early 1970s |
St. Laurence Church possesses,
according to Dr. Pevsner, "one of the most impressive, if not the most impressive,
of all the timber towers in England”.
An article in "Country Life" (9th May 1963) states "Perhaps the
most impressive of all the timber towers in England is that of St. Laurence's
Priory Church at Blackmore". A distinctive and unorthodox method of
constructing timbered steeples is found in the south-eastern counties,
especially in Essex, There they are commonly attached to a church of a more massive
construction (stone, brick or rubble), sometimes opening into it, or built
against the western facade, as is the case here at Blackmore. On plan, many
timber steeples have a continuous aisle placed upon all four sides, as at
Blackmore, Margaretting and Stock. They are all built with massive vertical
posts set on great horizontal baulks timber, which form their sills. The
vertical posts rise to the full height of the belfry itself, and are buttressed
by similarly constructed outbuildings forming aisles to the north and south, as
at Blackmore. These outbuildings have loan-to roofs, giving a three-tiered
effect. The resemblance to a small, independent aisle church is increased by
the presence of intermediate posts between the main verticals (see Exhibit D).
The Blackmore tower rises in
three diminishing stages, each stage separated by a pent roof covered with
tiles. On plan, the tower is 28 feet by 26½ feet, including the lean-to aisles,
the lofty base combining the first two storeys, giving lightness and nobility
to the interior. The exterior of each upper stage is framed up with boards
fastened upon studs, with narrow strips of oak to cover the joints, these
boards being vertical on the first storey and horizontal on the uppermost. The
lowest, or ground-level stage, is half-timbered, with massive timber studs, the
in-filling being covered with plaster. The studs were until fairly recently
covered all over with plaster and were not therefore visible, and the
appearance of the tower has been much improved by its removal. In the studs are
a great number of what appear to be nail-holes, probably caused by the
framework nailed to the studs to a backing for the plaster, and which were
ripped out when the plaster was taken away. Also clearly visible externally are
the holes drilled out to receive the large wooden dowels, frequently used for
fastening the massive members, and often the ends of the dowels themselves can
be seen.
The lowest pent roof, covering
three sides of the circulating aisle, has deep projecting eaves which are
supported upon angle struts having curved brackets.
The foundations of the tower
are of rubble, upon which are placed enormous horizontal baulks of timber 19
inches thick, forming the sills to the main uprights of the framing. These are
four massive posts, one at each corner, enclosing a square of 15 feet 8 inches
across which is also the size of the belfry. Within, the north and south aisles
are divided into four bays, the central two with arched heads. Above are two
tiers of cross-bracing; the outer bays have angle struts supporting the
framework. From east to west, single arches are built up of naturally curved
struts, reaching to the level of the first tier of cross bracing at the sides;
the moulded edges of the arches are continued to the ground upon pilasters with
moulded bases. Above the arches is a single tier of cross-bracing, matching the
upper tier of the sides. The top stages are also cress-braced (see Exhibits D
and E). The belfry is completed by a shingled collared spire combined with a
narrow spirelet, capped with a leaden terminal of trumpet shape, through which
passes the rod of the weather-vane. Apart from the shingles on the steeple, all
the timbers in the tower are entirely of local oak, for when it was built much of
Essex was forest, and oaks abounded, In the west wall of the tower is a 15th
century window of four cinquefoiled lights with vertical tracery in a square
head, all of wood. In the bell-chamber are four two-light louvres, one in each
face. The belfry is about 120 feet high, and a sectional elevation of the
timber structure is seen in Exhibit C. The joints incorporated in the timber-
work include a form of the mitre, not often met with. Viewed from inside the tower
it is a most elaborate and impressive example of the carpenter's art, and it
gives an impression of great strength.
The tower houses a carillon of
five bells, the largest of which, the tenor, weighs half a ton. The details
are:-
No.1 - 29 inches, weight 5
cwt., was cast in 1657. Incised "Miles Graye made me 1657”. It was recast
by Mears end Stainbank in 1914.
No.2 - 31 inches, weight 6
cwt., same date and incision.
No.3 - 33 inches, weight 6½
cwt., incised “John Hybberd, Miles Graye made me 1648”
No.4 - 36 inches, weight 8 cwt.,
incised "Thomas Lester of London made me", and again, below,
"John Staples, Ch. Warden, 1752".
No.5 - 41 inches, weight 10
cwt. 38 lbs., incised "Stephen Smith
Esquire. Miles Graye made me 1647”, and on the waist "Great Lawrence
recast 1901 Laus Deo”. It was recast by Mears and Stainbank.
"Bell Rope Meadow” was
willed to the church centuries ago, that the rent should provide new bell ropes
when required.
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The Nave, Blackmore Church
(1960s) |
The nave (87 feet by 20 feet)
of the priory church forms the chancel and nave of the present church. The east
wall internally is splayed back to show part of the 14th century octagonal
responds of a former transverse arch; they have moulded capitals and are
tapered back to a point about 6 feet above the floor. In the north wall are six
arches; the easternmost is of early 16th century work, four-centred and of
three chamfered orders with semi-octagonal responds, of which the eastern has a
moulded capital and base, and the western base is cut away; the arch is
cemented, but is probably of brick, and was kept low to admit an upper floor
over the east bay of the north aisle. The second, third, fourth and fifth
arches are of the 14th century, rebuilt. The moulded two-centred arches have
moulded labels with shield stops, some modern, and spring from columns each with
four attached shafts with moulded capitals and bases. The responds have
attached half-columns. The sixth arch is of mid-12th century date, semi-circular
and of one square order; the square pier has at each angle an attached shaft
with scalloped or water-leaf capital and moulded impost; the respond of the
fifth arch is built against this pier; the west respond is similar to half a
square pier; above the east arch of the arcade is a square-headed window opening
now blocked on the south side; it must formerly have opened into the upper
floor in the north aisle. East of the head of the arch, and cut away for about
a third of its width by the east wall, is a blocked 12th century window with moulded
splays and semi-circular rear arch; it is at a lower level than the original
clerestory. Above the west respond of the first arch are remains of the west jamb
or the original clerestory window, and below it, part of the weathering to the
original aisle roof. Above the fifth pier, over the Norman arch, is an original
clerestory window of a single round light, now opening into the north aisle,
but with the weathering to the original aisle roof below it. Unfortunately the
central arches of the north aisle arcade at some time had "splayed
over" to the north for about 13 inches, and they were therefore rebuilt in
1893. The greatest care was taken, each stone being marked, and it was
eventually rebuilt in the original order, and the arcade effectively strengthened.
The south arcade is of six
bays, the easternmost arch is uniform with the corresponding arch on the north.
Above the arch to the east is part of a blocked window corresponding to that on
the north side, but with a short length of string-course running west from it.
Centrally above the arch is a wide square-headed opening, with a wooden frame
and head. The second to the fifth bays of the arcade have two-centred arches of
three chamfered orders and octagonal piers are semi-octagonal responds with
moulded capitals and bases. The work is rough of mid-16th century Tudor type,
and the piers and probably the arches are of brick. The sixth bay is original
12th century and is uniform with the corresponding bay on the north side,
except that all the attached shafts have scalloped capitals with impost
mouldings repaired in cement. over the sixth (Norman) arch is an original
clerestory window, corresponding to that on the north sides, overlooking the
modern vestry which has been shut off for privacy at the west end of the south
aisle.
The north aisle (7½ feet wide)
has in its vast wall part of an arch, probably of the 13th century, dying into
the modern buttress; the rest of the arch has been destroyed and the filling is
more modern. The north wall east of the porch is of much later work than the remainder
west of the porch. The two gabled dormers on the north side of the church are
said by some authorities to be 16th century work and by others as probably
belonging to the 17th or 18th century. They are of an interesting character and
have been carefully incorporated with the older wall of the church. In the
north wall are five Perpendicular windows. The easternmost is a single early
16th century light, with a four-centred head restored externally; the second is
modern, as is the third, except for the head and tracery of the western light
and the internal head of both lights, which are of the 14th century, re-set.
Both second and third are of
two cinquefoiled ogee lights with tracery, in squared heads; the fourth window
is similar to the third, and is of the 14th century, re-set with some modern stone-work.
The fifth window is similar but with a moulded label a much weathered. Between the
fourth and fifth windows is the North door, previously described. East of the
porch, and projecting on modern buttresses are the two gabled dormers, of wood
and plaster, each of three lights with an oval light above. These dormers are
carried by a corbel-like arrangement of mouldings over the aisle windows, supported
by buttresses of stone and rubble. Whilst the dormers themselves give a somewhat
strange and picturesque effect to the church viewed as a whole, the general appearance
of the north wall is not very attractive, in my opinion, and the buttresses are
out of keeping with the character of to church.
The south aisle (7½ feet wide)
has in the east wall a modern window incorporating some old stones, end set in
the blocking of a 13th century two-centred archway with a rounded label on the
west side; the south wall of In- aisle is splayed back to allow or the width of
the archway. The south wall is probably of mid-16th century date except at the
east end, where it may be 13th century. Near the east end is the 13th century
doorway from the cloister, now blocked up. Externally part of the two-centred moulded
arch is visible, and internally the whole arch and the segmental-pointed and shouldered
rear-arch with moulded label, can clearly be seen. Above the door head internally
is the carved figure of a beast, with the head broken off. Some have suggested
that it may be intended to be a boar, which was sometimes used as a crest by
the de Vere family, who at one time held the advowson of the church. A more likely
possibility, it has been suggested, is that the carving represents a salamander
– a mythical creature which it was believed it was impossible to destroy by
fire, and which was often carved at the entrances to churches in the porch or
over the doorway to protect the building from fire. Further west the three
modern windows, each of two lights, square-headed, with stone jambs and cusped
tracery. The easternmost one is difficult to see internally, because it is
hidden by the organ, which stands in front of it. Between the two western windows
is the 18th century south doorway, probably representing-a former doorway from
the cloisters.
In the south wall are three
dormers, each of three lights with square heads under small gables. They spring
from and are incorporated in the roof, and are not carried on corbels and buttresses
as are the two dormers on the north side. At the west end of the south wall can
be seen a small part of the original wall, with wooden framing. There is one
brick buttress on the south wall, to the east of the westernmost window.
The south wall externally has
a far more pleasing appearance than the north wall; the dormers are smaller and
less obtrusive without the ugly buttresses, and the whole facade has a more mellow
and uniform appearance.
The font, of Purbeck marble,
is a plain octagon measuring 2 feet 7 inches across and three feet in height.
It is of the 14th or 15th century, and is raised upon two Purbeck marble steps,
occupying its original position in the centre of the nave, and westward of the
principal entrance. Singularly enough, it does net stand square within the
building - the alternate angles of the font are placed to the cardinal points
of the building. It is quite plain, but there are some indications that it may
at one time have had some form of decoration; it is too worn to be sure of
this.
The internal roof of the
church is of timber, the boarding for the most part running longitudinally from
east to west. There are timber ribs with carved bosses at intervals where the ribs
intersect with the central ridge-timber. An interesting discovery was made at the
end of the last century - - when extensive repairs were made. It was noticed
that the shields at the intersections of the rib vaultings were painted with
heraldic devices. After removal and cleaning it was found that four hundred years
of grime had not entirely destroyed their original colours. An expert in heraldry
examined them and was able to date most of the families or persons whose devices
they were. John of Gaunt's shield is there and he died in 1399. The shield of
Robert de Braybrook, Bishop of London from 1381 - 1400, is also there, and the
indications are that the roof was being constructed in the last decade of the
14th century. Sixteen of the shields were identified and among the other as
recorded are those of Robert de Vere, Fitzwalter and Ufford. Some of the
shields have been repainted and replaced on the roof.
The screen between the nave
and chancel is modern, of oak, the vertical panels being surmounted by cusped
ogee-arched tracery.
The interior walls of the
church are covered with plaster and have no special interest, beyond what has
been already recorded.
All the painted window glass
is modern, of the 20th century, but of good class. In 1901 memorial windows to
Henry John Barratt and Dr. J. R. White were erected in the north wall. The east
window was given by an anonymous donor. The window at the west end of the south
wall, bearing the inscription "To the greater glory of God, end in memory
of the 800th year of the existence of this church" was put in at the same
time as the lych gate was built. There had been older painted glass in the
church but all that remains is one panel representing the martyrdom of St.
Laurence, originally in one of the north wall dormers.
In the south aisle, at the
east end, Is an alabaster tomb which bears the recumbent figures of Sir Thomas Smythe
and his second wife - Margaret. They lived in the parish at Smythes Hall, an
ancient and picturesque building in which was some very fine painted glass
windows, supposed to have been taken out of the old priory. Smythes Hall was pulled
down in 1844. The date of the tomb is 1594. The heads of the effigies are on a
rolled up mat. The tomb-chest, with decorated pillasters, is not original, and
the tomb has suffered from neglect and possibly deliberate defacement, but it
has been recently restored.
There are some interesting slabs
in the floor of the chancel. In the middle, beneath the carpet (and protected
by it) is the eldest one. It belongs to the end of the 13th or beginning of the
14th century. There is the matrix of a “cross flory" and round the edge
come carved letters, now indecipherable. It is recorded that the inscription
once read "To the memory of the just prior, Thomas de Vere". He might
have been the prior responsible for planning the enlargement of the church, but
why the 'just' prior?
In front of the chancel steps
is another slab, with the filled in matrix of a brass figure - a civilian of the
mid-15th century in a fur-trimmed gown. The description and the lower half of
the figure is missing. The upper part of the brass figure has been removed, to
avoid damage by passing feet, and it is intended mount it on a wall at some
future date. There are several stone floor-slabs at the east end commemorating
various members of the Smyth family. They are all carved with the Smyth achievement
of arms - "a shield argent a cross gules between four peacocks close, azure;
crest, a peacock's head erased azure, ducally gorged or”. Some of the carvings
on the slabs are beautifully done, whilst others are of quite crude workmanship.
Another interesting slob, on the north side near the communion rail,
commemorates Simon Lynch, Rector of Runwell and Curate of Blackmore about 1660,
"who for fearing God and the King was sequestered, prosecuted and
persecuted to the day of his death - by Gog and Magog”. I understand that the
reference to "Gag and Magog" is a disguised allusion to Cromwell and
the Commonwealth, in biblical terminology.
There is a further curiosity
in Blackmore church – a cresset stone believed to be the only one in Essex. It
is a curiously shaped stone, grey in colour, with five cup-like depressions in
it. These were filled with oil or tallow and a lighted wick floated in each, giving
a somewhat meagre and smokey light. Such stones were usually placed in a
passage, or near a doorway, and this one may have lighted the canons on the way
to chapel. It is now kept in a box with a glass lid, in the tower, and access
to the latter is necessary to see it.
The church registers date back
to 1602; they should date back to 1538, and it seems therefore that one is missing.
The list of Priors, which is not
complete, dates from 1204, when King John was reigning. The list we have
reads:-
Richard – occurs 1204
Roger
William – occurs 1234, 1240,
1244
John – occurs 1248, 1253, 1268
Nicholas – occurs 1310
James – occurs 1351
Walter Bumsted – died 1385
Stephen atte Broke – elected
1385, died 1406
John Dawdre – elected 1406
William – occurs 1437
John Canone – resigned 1445
Thomas Wold – occurs 1453,
1456
Robert – occurs 1458
John Webbe – resigned 1476
Thomas Basset – collated 1476
Thomas Colyns – died 1513
Thomas Goodwyn – collated
1513, the last Prior
The church today is just a small
village church, but it has had a long and varied history, and it has many
features of particular interest. The tower is quite outstanding, but in order
to appreciate it fully it is essential to view it from inside. Anyone
approaching Blackmore by the Ingatestone road has a fine view of the church,
beyond the grounds of Jericho Priory, and it will be difficult for anyone
interested in old buildings to resist the temptation to go up to it and know it
better.
Acknowledgments: I am grateful
to the following sources, inter alia, for information concerning Blackmore
Church: a file of papers concerning the Church kindly lent to me by the Vicar,
the Rev. Montague H. Knott, a Short History of the Church compiled be Constance
H. Simmons, a Short History compiled in 1945 by the then Vicar, an article in
'Country Life" dated 9th May 1963, the Victoria History of the County of
Essex (Vol.2) and “Timber Building in England" by Fred H. Crossley.
List of Exhibits:-
.(A) Ground plan of St.
Laurence Church.
(B) Ground plan showing an
imaginative reconstruction of the original Priory and Church.
(C) The Bell Tower end sectional
elevation.
(D) Ground plan of the Bell
Tower
(3) An impression of the
timber of the S.W. corner of the Bell Tower.
(F) Photograph of the timber
tower from the west.
[Unknown author]
March 1974
